I test fit the sprocket formed run and it's a pretty close, although not exact, match. Also determined that the bottom run needed to be about 24 links while the top run needed to be 27 to connect the sprocket form up with the idler form. I left the sprocket run unattached along with the top run and only attached the bottom run to the idler run (confused yet?
) to make it easier to paint and connect it all up after a test fit to make sure I had the right number of links. The runs were painted first with Non-buffing Metalizer Gunmetal and then drybrushed with Steel. Lastly a very thin (90-10) wash of Rust was applied in single passes with a sable brush and the runs secured together and adjusted to fit properly on the roadwheels. This weathering is only preliminary, more will come in later stages. 
The exercise was repeated on the right side but curiously enough the runs did not come out to the exact count of links. Either Dragon provided more extras of one side vs. the other or another reason exists that I'm not aware of, but I had 18 extra links on the left side when it was constructed but only 15 on the right side. It was finished in the same method and installed as well without incident.
Once all that was taken care of, I worked on the details, beginning with the spare track runs for the front hull. Now the instructions will tell you to assemble 10 links of either the left hand or right side type only to go in this area, but just to be a bit different and also a little logical....I created a run of 5 spares for the left side and 5 for the right. Photos of #100 on display in Russia show that there were indeed links of both sides on the front hull, although not 10 in total, so it's plausible enough I think. I also drilled out the end link connectors on each set of 5 and inserted a brass rod to simulate the pins that should be there but aren't on the molded tracks. They were painted the same as the regular track runs but given a little heavier dose of the Rust wash as well as drybrushed with Burnt Umber. I also painted up and weathered by hand the top retaining bracket for the spare tracks and glued it in place. My decision of using 5 links from each made this a tighter than usual fit but I managed to still get it to work out ok. The hull MG was also painted with Gunmetal and drybrushed with Steel to finish it up.
I also painted up the gun cleaning rods and the shovel and axe using my special mix of wood color for the handles and then weathered with burnt umber pastels lightly brushed on to "age" the wood a bit. The metal portions were done with Gunmetal and drybrushed lighthly with Steel.
I also detailed the jack block on the rear hull, using the same methods as with the pioneer tools and cleaning rods. The exhausts were also basecoated with Gunmetal and then given a wash of Rust followed with drybrushed Burnt Umber in places. I also dusted a little bit of black pastel on the rear hull close to the tops of the exhausts to simulate some soot collection there.
Turret was placed to double check clearance on all the important items and now everything is ready for a sealing coat of Future and the markings to be applied before final weathering.
Upon returning, I mixed up some MiG Dark Mud, Russian Earth, and African Earth together as dry powders and then combined with tap water to create a wet solution applied by sable brush to the tracks, hull, wheels, etc. 
