BP Models

Continuing on from yesterday, I added the decal markings to create a vehicle from 6/Pz.Rgt. 11, 6 Pz.Div. in France 1940. The finishing guide is only partially helpful in the markings placement since it only shows the left hand side and the front.





It's the right hand side that poses a bit of a challenge. Vehicles in France sported a wide variety of markings arrangements depending on the unit in question. Fortunately I was able to find pics of that side of the vehicle for another company's vehicle (523) in the same Rgt/Div unit as a reference.



I used Solvaset on the decals to insure they snugged down tight to the surface and then applied a 2nd coat of Future to seal them in and provide protection from the weathering to come. This will sit and cure for 24 hours so will be a little bit before the next update.

It's been a struggle to get time back at the bench with the end of the year activity, work on my MBA classes, and the start of the NFL playoffs...but I managed to get some more progress done and start the weathering stages.

First up were the tracks, I applied an airbrushed base coat of MM enamel Burnt Umber and let that cure overnight. Then I dry brushed some MM enamel Steel to give it a metallic look and applied a highly thinned wash of MM enamel Raw Umber to tone down the steel and blend things together.



I also started in on the hull weathering. I applied an overall wash of MM enamel Raw Sienna with a round 0 sable brush. This will get combined with the dot filtering process that is next to provide a dusty/streaky finish to the base camo pattern.



My goal is to get this one completely finished in the course of the next week or so, hopefully I can deliver on that expectation barring any unforeseen circumstances.

I made good use of the MLK holiday today and have more progress to report on the weathering front as a result.

I applied a dot filter using dots of enamel MM Italian Dark Brown, a 50/50 mix of Light Gray/Panzer Dunkelgelb, and an 80/20 mix of Panzer Gray/Light Gray in combination with the already applied overall wash of Raw Sienna. The dots were blended together using repeated downward strokes of a square-tip blender brush lightly dampened with thinner.



This was done to the entire lower hull and turret working small sections at a time and while wearing a breather mask due to the thinner exposure. After about 3 hours of effort, the filter was on. I left the open hatches "clean" to show contrast between the interior and exterior exposed surfaces

I'm trying to take full advantage of the mini break I have between the end of one MBA class and the start of another to get this one across the finish line so more progress to report today.

Following on from the dot filter exercise yesterday, I added some depth to the model using a pin wash of enamel Burnt Umber. This was applied with a pointed 10/0 brush and excess bloom/wash cleaned up with the same brush and clean thinner where needed. I also gave the fenders another dose of the thinned Raw Sienna wash used earlier to build up the dirt/dust effects a bit more.



The rear hull received its final detail in the form of the tow cables. I used the kit supplied ends but not the braided wire as I find it too stiff and difficult to work with. I replaced the wire with some crochet rope thread dipped in Future and hung to dry. The Future dip accomplishes two things...it prevents the thread from "fuzzing" when painted and also stiffens the thread so it behaves more like a cable. Once it was dry, I used MM non-buffing Metalizer Gunmetal and dry-brushed some enamel Steel and installed the cables on the storage hooks.



Next I applied a dull coat using Testors Model Master Lusterless Flat in the spray can to seal everything in, remove any remaining hints of gloss from the Future coats, and prep the lower hull for the pigment weathering to come. After the dull coat had dried, I removed the blue-tack masking from the turret side hatch vision ports.



That also meant I could deal with the other remaining detail, the clear inserts for the commander's cupola. These were 90mm thick blocks of bullet-proof glass on the real deal, so I used Tamiya Clear Green to give them a slight greenish tinge to depict the thickness. The clear green was applied then removed using Windex and a clean brush until just a slight tinting was left behind.



Then the blocks were installed in position using tweezers and careful applications of liquid glue.



Next up will be weathering the lower hull and tracks with pigments. Getting very close to the finish line now with this one.

Today's efforts focused on the pigment treatment for the lower hull and suspension. I used Mig Dark Mud pigment converted to a wet mixture using ordinary tap water with a drop of liquid dish soap added to break the surface tension and make the application easier.



After that had air dried, I used some stiff bristled brushes to remove excess pigment and then set to work with both wet and dry ends of a Q-tip to remove more pigment and adjust the finish.



This was done to both sides and this is where things stand as of now.





Then to provide some layering and tone down the reddish effect a bit of the Dark Mud, I applied some Mig Dry Mud as dry powder with a stiff bristled brush to round things out.



Next up will be working with the tracks and then installing them as the final weathering step.

Today's efforts were all about the tracks. I applied a wet mix of Mig Dry Mud pigments and let it air dry, then went to work with round and square stiff bristled brushes.



Tracks were installed and the sprockets fixed into position.





Will see if some adjustments need to be made tomorrow after it's had a chance to sit overnight.

I made some final adjustments using more of the Mig Dried Mud pigments on the road wheels to get a better match with the finish on the tracks. Then it was off to the photo booth for the finished walk-around shots.

This build has been featured in FineScale Modeler's December 2012 issue.